Sicily and southern Italy in general, was long known for its high volume of wine production where quantity trumped quality. In fact, there was a time when more wine left Sicily in tanker than in bottle, destined to beef up wines from cooler climates up north.

While some regional producers continue to make wine in bulk, others have adopted a new philosophy. Sicilian producer Planeta is one such company, which has not only chosen to embrace quality, but does so in an unusual way.

At first glance, the Planeta winery seems like a huge operation. Yet, when you look closer, the Planeta brand is actually several boutique wineries strung together under the same banner. This family-run business, currently headed by cousins Francesca and Allessio Planeta, owns six different wineries, each located within a distinct area on the island.

Although the family has been in agriculture for many generations (and lived on the island for four centuries), wine is newer to them, but they have been at the forefront of Sicily’s renaissance. Francesca’s father saw that Sicily had the potential to create great wine if the focus was shifted. Following this philosophy, the Planetas planted international varieties in 1985. However, the family also sought to preserve the local grapes, initially conducting research on Grecanico and Nero d’Avola. Their first vintage was in 1995.

Acknowledging that Sicily is a big island, Francesca further explained that it is not one region, but rather several different regions, all located on the same island. Accordingly, only a few grape varieties –Grecanico, Nero d’Avola and Inzolia – are planted throughout the island. All other varieties grown by the Planetas are confined to a specific subregion. As further quality assurance, Planeta established wineries in each terroir.

The family’s original site is in Sambuca di Sicilia, in the northwest, where they grow their Chardonnay and Fiano grapes, among others. Nearby, in Menfi, they have two winery operations, one dedicated to international reds and the other solely producing their white blend (La Segreta) and rosé.

A smaller site was established in the northeast near the slopes of Etna, where Carricante and Nerello Mascalese do best. This volcanic area possesses richly, mineral soils with black lava sand. Further north is Planeta’s newest project in Capo Milazzo, near Messina. Here, a blend of Nocera and Nero d’Avola grapes are destined for Mamertino, a wine previously favored by Julius Cesar, and scheduled for release in 2013.

In Sicily’s southeast, the family maintains a winery in Noto and in Vittoria. In Noto, the emphasis is on Nero d’Avola and Moscato Bianco, the latter primarily used to produce Passito di Noto, which had almost disappeared due to the lack of a local market for this luscious dessert wine. Grapes are dried for 45 days, during which time they lose 55% of their weight and become increasingly concentrated in sugar and flavor.

West of Noto, Vittoria is home to Sicily’s only DOCG – Cerasuolo di Vittoria. This blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato displays bright cherry fruit, low tannins and is fresh and lively on the palate.

As an additional commitment to Sicily’s culture, the Planeta family has opened La Foresteria, a boutique hotel near Menfi. As a vacation destination for culinary and wine enthusiasts, La Foresteria offers cooking classes and the produces its own olive oil from a grove on the property.

As Vice President of the company (and also of the Prosecco Superiore DOCG consortium), Elvira Bortolomiol is often the face of her family’s winery. I first met her during my inaugural trip to the Conegliano Valdobbiadene denomination and then had the opportunity to dine with her on her visit to New York, where she accepted the award for Wine Region of the Year at Wine Enthusiast’s annual dinner. Thus, I was eager to see her winery firsthand when I next arrived in the region.

Nestled just off one of the main squares in the village of Valdobbiadene, Bortolomiol is hidden from view despite its moderate size. Here, the winery facility sits adjacent to a two hectare vineyard, which has been farmed organically for the past three years. The property also features modern sculptures and a beautiful alley of trees, creating a park-like atmosphere.

Established in 1949 by Giuliano Bortolomiol, the company remains family owned and operated with sisters Maria Elena, Elvira, Luisa and Giuliana at the helm, continuing to build on their father’s legacy. The organic project has been guided by Guiliana, who had been integral in replanting all of the family’s vineyards alongside her father several decades earlier. Grapes from the new venture are destined for the winery’s IUS Naturae Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Brut.

For their other wines, Bortolomiol has vineyards outside the village and also works with 70 growers, all of whom have been required to sign contracts with the company agreeing to implement new protocols for sustainable agriculture. This forward-thinking approach is not new to the company. Even under Giuliano’s leadership, Bortolomiol has always been a pioneer – whether it was founding the Confraternita del Prosecco or being the first to produce a Brut-style Prosecco.

Like many daughters, the women are proud of their father, but unlike most of us, they have had the opportunity to honor his memory by naming a wine after him. In this regard, the Motus Vitae Il Brut di Giuliano, is a perfectly fitting tribute. The grapes for this wine come from a highly regarded vineyard in San Pietro di Barbozza, which qualifies this wine under the DOCG’s Rive designation.

Another wine that pays tribute to this remarkable man is the Bandarossa. The significance of this wine is that Giuliano used to make a red mark on the labels of his best bottles as a sign that these were the ones he wished to share with friends and family. Today, in this same tradition, the best batch of Extra Dry wine is reserved for and bottled as the Bandarossa, which features a red band on the label.

Bortolomiol’s portfolio is quite diverse with a range of vintage-dated wines, their I Tradizionali (which are not vintage-dated) and several others such as a frizzante and a tranquillo (still wine).

I was impressed with all of the wines I tasted during my visit, but my favorite was the Motus Vitae 2010. The second fermentation is initiated on February 27, which was Giuliano’s birthday and the wine was then aged for a longer period of time before bottling (7 months as compared to 2 months).  The result is a wine with aromas of flowers, wild herbs and minerality. The dry palate is beautifully structured, displaying citrus, melon and mineral notes throughout its long length.